Understanding basic electrical wiring

In order to be constructed or rewired after 1940, all new homes had to adhere to the National Electrical Code (NEC), which was created with security in mind. Color-coded NEC codes identify the many kinds of electric wires and cables in use. Many colors of wires may be seen when the cover of a switch plate is removed. Each performs a distinct role, and some of them don’t get along with the others.

Wiring Electrical Circuits

When you’re installing a non-metallic electrical cable, you must identify the sections of the cable: the outside sheath (the jacket) and the interior conductors. What seems to be colored “wire” is really a sheath that covers the copper wires within. You can tell how many and what gauge of wires are within the sheathing by looking at the markings. Wires are identified by the color of the sheath they are wrapped in.

Listed below is a kind of a wire type chart:

• Live electrical loads are transported from the electricity supply panel to a socket, light, or other destination via black wires, sometimes known as “hot wires”.
• All of the smoke detectors in the home utilize red cables as hot wires, which means that only if one alarm was set off, they all do as well.
• neutral buses bar, which draws and distributes electricity throughout the home through neutral bus wires. Don’t be fooled by the “neutral” label since they may still carry a fee if the present load is not matched.
• Wires that have been covered with black or red-black tape are likewise considered to be hot wire. The white conductor, which really is ordinarily neutral, is now being utilized as a heating element because of the tape.
• In the case that a live wire comes into contact with metal or another conductor, the ground bus bar inside the electrical panel serves as a conduit for the resulting current to be discharged to the ground. It is possible for a green wire to be live even if it is only connected to other green wires.
• The most common form of grounding wire is a bare copper wire.
• The usage of blue and yellow wires as hot wires in such an electrical conduit is not uncommon, despite their rarity in non-metallic (NM) cable. Inside the switches at the underside of a stairwell, the blue ones represent passengers who may be using the same light switch.

Is there a certain sort of wire that is utilized in the home?

Nonmetallic (NM) cable, which is often used in contemporary houses, comprises of 2 or more captivity in a colored sheath. Most often, a package of wiring includes one or more warm wires in addition to a neutral and/or ground. A junction box may be used to safeguard wire connections while splicing old wires with fresh NM cable in an older house or when the wiring just needs to be improved. The circuit voltage carried by the bigger circuit wires may be very harmful if touched. Think of any cables you don’t know what they are as potentially lethal.

Tips for wiring and switching at home for basic electrical wiring

It’s important to know what you’re doing if you’re going to attempt a DIY wiring project on your own.

• The right instruments are essential. A multimeter that measures voltage output and a sheath/wire remover are two examples.
• Make yourself familiar with the various cables. To prevent electric shock and properly wire your house, take the time to learn where each color wire goes and what it’s for.
• Don’t be afraid to buy more wire than you think you need. Ensure that it extends at least two or three inches beyond the electrical box before installing it in your home.
• Large plates may be used to patch drywall. You may have overestimated the size of the hole in a wall. A large electrical plate will solve the problem.
• Pay for what you get, not what you don’t. The integrity of switches and outlets should not be sacrificed.
• Before you touch any wires or circuits, be sure they are safe to handle. To determine whether or not they are safe to touch, use a multimeter to check.
• Get the facts first. Look up how-to videos on the internet, such as those found on YouTube.

Mistakes to avoid in Electrical Wiring

Short circuits, shocks, and even flames may result from an electrical “oops” moment. Here are some frequent blunders to steer clear of:

• Electrical junction boxes are the only places where you should join cables. Add a box and run the wires through it if there isn’t already one.
• Keep in mind that the minimum wire length is three inches. Do not shorten your cables. Add six-inch extensions if you decide to do this.
• As in a roof installation, never leave sheathing exposed in the gaps between the framing members. You may either use a metal conduit or staple it to a 2×2.
• Keep an eye out for outlets that aren’t securely linked to their switches.
• A ground wire must always be used when installing a three-slot receptacle.
• An electrical box should never be hidden behind a sidewall. Instead, extend the wall.
• Use a clamp to prevent the wire insulation from being ripped or frayed.

Electrical malfunctions in the home are common.

It’s likely that if you have ancient wiring, you’ll face a variety of problems. As there was no ground and the wiring wasn’t designed to withstand today’s heavy-duty appliances, frayed insulation is one of the most prevalent problems. In addition to aging wiring, there are a number of additional frequent electrical issues:

• Lighting, broken power lines, or malfunctioning equipment or wiring may create frequent surges.
• Decreases in power supply due to malfunctioning devices (or those constructed of low-quality materials) being hooked up to the electric grid
• When a light switch doesn’t operate properly
• An overworked circuit breaker
• A circuit breaker that has been tripped
• Shocks
• Inappropriate light levels
• Inexpensive power bills
• Inexplicably frequent light bulb replacements
• Absent-minded recessed lighting fixtures that reappear after a period of inactivity

How becoming an electrician for basic electrical wiring

There is a wide range of jobs that most electricians can take on. Is being an electrician something you’ve ever considered? Electricians are expected to have a faster-than-average employment growth rate through 2028, according to O*NET OnLine. Coyne College Chicago’s electrical construction & planning programs are worth considering. If you’re interested in pursuing a career as an electrician, you’ll be given the practical electrical training and personalized guidance you need.

FAQs:

Describe some of the most fundamental types of electrical wiring.

Typical residential electrical wiring is comprised of 3 wires wrapped in an insulated sleeve. The “hot” wire is referred to as a black wire since it conducts the electrical current. The “neutral” wire is white, while the “ground” wire is a bare copper wire.

What is the bare-bones electrical expertise required?

Basic knowledge of electrical principles such as voltage, current, resistivity, Ohm’s law, wattage, and circuit theory is required before understanding the Code. A full understanding of the rules that regulate the functioning of electricity is an evident basis for all electrical systems.

Is it a good idea to do electrical repair on your own?

Yes, it’s a good idea to perform your own electrical work. Many homeowners agree, as seen by the large electrical supply areas at hardware shops. Even if you’re diligent, basic home wiring isn’t that difficult.

Wiring in a typical home consists of:

In today’s houses, nonmetals (NM) cable, which itself is made up of several separate wires encased in a protective plastic sheath, is the most popular kind of wiring. One or more “hot” (current-carrying) wire, a neutral wire, as well as a ground wire are often found in NM cable.

Why is there a reason why we need to study the basic electrical wiring?

With electricity, it’s always important to be aware of the possible dangers. You need to make sure that your new hires have the fundamental electrical knowledge they need to do their tasks and keep themself out of harm’s ways while doing so.

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If you are reading this is because you are facing woodpecker holes in your home, and that is what you need to know.

Woodpeckers can cause quite a bit of damage when they decide to peck on stucco. Stucco itself has a very hard layer but woodpeckers…They nail it all the way. Stucco has this hard cement surface however EIFS Exterior insulated finish systems stucco is made with styrofoam as insulation with this hard surface finish of portland modified cement and Acrylic finish.   This material is very easy for the woodpecker to penetrate and can cause quite a mess, you probably know about it.

It may not look like it but the beautiful bird with a long beak and strikingly bold colors does more damage than you think it can. They don’t stop at one hole and if you don’t stop them from pecking, your stucco might look like a giant honeycomb. 

Let’s leave some of this for later…

Before hopping on ways to get rid of woodpeckers, let’s have a brief look at their pecking behavior.

WHY IS A WOODPECKER PECKING HOLES IN MY STUCCO?

No, a woodpecker is not on a mission to annoy you. In fact, it has got some valid reasons to do so like:

1- Food: A woodpecker likes to eat wood-boring insects along with some insects that like to live on trees and grounds. The stucco of your home may be infested with carpenter bees or ants which is the reason woodpeckers pay a visit to your walls.  So, next time you see a woodpecker pecking holes in stucco, it might be looking for food!

Getting Cozy: Woodpeckers like other birds have an instinct of nesting. The only difference is that its nest is inside a tree. When looking for a place to nest, woodpeckers are often attracted to homes that are not covered with hardwood instead softer woods like pinewood, cider, and of course stucco. Calling stucco their favorite pecking thing won’t be wrong. Once they succeed to drill a hole in the stucco, inside lies a cozy place where they can start a family of their own or get cozy after a long day of flying.

2- Storage: Woodpeckers are way smarter than you think. They often dig holes to store food. Yes! You read that right. Smart move, isn’t it? Woodpeckers like nuts like hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, and pecans. If you find some nuts stuck in the roof shakes, know that a woodpecker has saved it for the future. Making holes in stucco is easier for them and it provides them a nice place to store their favorite nuts.

3- Making some Noise: Woodpeckers like to make some good noise but at particular times of the year. They are not noisy in fact there are two purposes behind the loud drumming or hammering sound by a woodpecker. Firstly, it’s like an announcement that this area is theirs and other woodpeckers must not think of invading it. Boss behavior, right? A second possible reason for drumming may be the phenomenon known as “shadow boxing”. Woodpeckers, when they see their own reflection in the windows, do the hammering in order to scare the other bird away. The third and the most important reason woodpeckers make loud noise is mating which may come as a surprise to many. Making a loud noise is their way of attracting a partner for mating and you shouldn’t be judging them. The hammering sound and pecking that is associated with mating are found during the fall and the spring weather. Whereas, the other noise-making goes on throughout the year.

HOW TO STOP A WOODPECKER FROM PECKING HOLES IN THE STUCCO?

Woodpeckers need to be stopped from pecking holes in the walls as the activity is not restricted to the stucco only. Woodpeckers also peck door frames, eaves and, trim boards. This includes both domestic and commercial properties. You must not opt for some lethal way to stop the creature. Have a look at these tips and methods to prevent woodpeckers from creating holes in the wall:

1- Make use of Visual Deterrents to Scare Woodpeckers:

Regarded as one of the easiest methods to divert the woodpeckers, putting up visual deterrents is also a very inexpensive method. Woodpeckers get scared by reflections very easily hence putting the visual deterrents up on the wall works out in your favor. The most common and most effective used visual tools to share the nasty birds away are:

●  Bird Repellent Discs

●  Bird Repellent Tape

●  Bird Repellent Balloons

●  Mirrors

●  Reflective Streamers

2- Try Electronic Woodpecker Repellent

 Calling it a modern way to scare the woodpeckers away won’t be wrong. The method has a high-efficiency rate and is super easy to use and install. When a woodpecker goes near the electronic device, it makes a sound that scares the birds. As simple as that! The electronic repellents available offer a high area coverage which is the reason they are one of the best sellers.

 3- Lure them into Woodpecker Suet Cakes

If you ask about food that woodpeckers can’t say no to ever, it is none other than a suet cake. You can end the hammering and pecking once and for all with the help of this simple method. All you need to do is to place a suet cake in a woodpecker suet feeder and hang it a little distance from your house. You will be surprised to see how they go gaga over the mini treat. You can even put more than one suet cake in your yard. This way you are not only keeping the woodpeckers away but also providing them with food.

FREQUESNT ASKED QUESTIONS

Frequently Asked Questions

1.     HOW TO REPAIR WOODPECKER DAMAGE IN STUCCO?

Woodpeckers can surely ruffle your feather with the damage they do to your walls. However, what’s amazing is you can easily repair woodpecker holes in stucco walls with an EIFS woodpecker damage stucco repair kit. The EIFS saves bucks to do the repairs from scratch; rather it blends well within the walls.

ELECTRONIC WOODPECKERS REPELLENTS?

WHAT ARE THE CHANCES TO SCARE THE WOODPECKERS AWAY USING ELECTRONIC WOODPECKERS REPELLENTS?

Yes repellents work, we have seen results in Electronic Woodpecker Repellents, however, this is Mother Nature so we don’t guarantee that in all cases will work the same way.

ARE WOODPECKERS DAMAGE COVERED BY HOME INSURANCE?

Woodpecker damage is generally not covered by homeowners insurance as it’s considered preventable. If you find cone-shaped holes in your siding or near your roofline, then you likely have a woodpecker infestation.

DO WOODPECKER COME BACK TO THE SAME SPOT?

Woodpeckers normally nest in the cavity of trees. Some return each spring to the same place. Others, like downy and hairy woodpeckers, excavate new cavities each year.

DOES WOODPECKERS ON MY HOUSE MEANS I HAVE TERMITES?

 Not Exactly. Woodpeckers eat many different species of insect, including termites, but also wood-boring beetles, bees, wasps, and carpenter ants. In addition, the woodpecker may not be feeding at your house at all.

WHAT ARE WOODPECKERS AFRAID OF?

Woodpeckers are afraid of hawks and owls; you can place artificial hawks or owls on rooftops to scare the pesky birds away.

KEY TAKEAWAY

Woodpeckers’ natural habitat is inside tree trunks. They drill holes in the stucco to reside and feed. With so many methods and tips to deter the birds away, you can save yourself from a huge maintenance bill and of course, an ear-piercing sound. Even if the damage has been done, the EIFS woodpecker damage repair kit has helped a million owners out there.

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Exterior stucco home Primer and Plastering Stucco wall. Sanding a wall is a process that no one likes in anyways, very dusty however it removes the sand and imperfections to make the wall very smooth and flat.

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

This stage aims to provide a smooth surface and sheen to your wall so that it doesn’t look dull, uneven, and unattractive after painting. So, it may be correct to say that this stage is designed to enhance the beauty of your Insulated exterior wall.

Sanding the Wall

Sanding a wall is a process that no one likes in anyways, very dusty however it removes the sand and imperfections to make the wall very smooth and flat. This process is quite a simple one, all you need to do is to take your sanding pad and move it around the wall. The sanding should be in an upward and downward direction.

If you do not have a sanding pad, you can use a sanding sponge, although this may take more time. The best way to get a neat outcome with a sanding sponge is the wet sanding method. Fully immerse the sponge in water and squeeze it to remove excess water.

Rub the coarse side of the sanding sponge against the wall in a circular motion, ensuring that you work it into the edges to smooth them. Continue this process until all areas soften and surface, even.

Skim Coating Your Wall

Skim coating is a texturing technique used to make a wall smooth. This technique is useful for hiding imperfections in constructions, to give the wall a plaster-like look. It is also beneficial for situations where a smooth surface is needed.

Exterior stucco home Primer and Plastering Stucco wall

Skim coating is used to achieve a level 5 drywall finish, which is the recommendation for several trade associations for areas of bright lighting. The Painting and Decorating Contractors of America highly recommend a level 5 drywall finish.

Materials You Need for Skim Coating

• Mixing paddle
• 18v cordless drill
• Soft brushes
• Plasterers hawk
• Finishing trowel (float)
• Internal cover trowel
• Bucket trowel
• Scraper
• Trug
• Water

Preparing the Coat

• Pour water into a bucket

• Add the plaster and mix with a mixing paddle. Keep adding the plaster in bits while continually stirring. Be mindful of the consistency, you might want to add a little water if too thick and then mix again.

Ensure to mix thoroughly till it is completely free of lumps.

• Wet all your equipment to prevent the plaster from sticking to them.

• Use the bucket trowel to scrape off all plaster from the sides of the bucket.

• Scoop some portion of the mixture into your plasterers’ hawk, use the trowel to take it from there, and apply to the wall. You should apply in a down to upward direction and from the edges of the wall to the center.

• Use the angle tool to work on the corners of the wall.

• Allow to sit for about 30-45 minutes, then apply the second coat in the manner as the first. The second coat should have a little running consistency than the first coat.

• Allow setting for another 60-90 minutes.

• Use a trowel to smoother the wall (remove lumps and bumps) and skim off excesses. Do not dig in the trowel into the wall, keep the throw at a slight angle.

• After some minutes, say 20-30 minutes, use your trowel to smoother the wall again.

• Polish the wall; dip a brush in water and carefully paint over the wall.

Note: You should use the mixture immediately to prevent it from drying out. The 1st coat should be 2mm thick, while the second coating 1mm thick. Also, remember to work on the corners of your wall using the angle tool.

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Priming the Wall

Why Do You Need to Prime?

Here are the reasons why you should prime your wall:

• Excellent Adhesion

Priming ensures excellent adhesion of the paint to the surface.

• Priming, in most cases, is used to cover dark colors to make it easier for the finish coat to hide better. If you can add some tint to the prime, it may even co er the finish coat better.

• When you are working with a high gloss finish or very smooth surfaces, lightly sanding them and then priming will improve the adhesion of the painting.

• Priming patched areas on your wall are recommended, it allows the finish coat to dry to a uniform sheen. If you do not prime patched areas on a wall, the finish coat will look dull and unattractive over those patched spots.

• Priming is a perfect cover for stains on walls caused by water or smoke, it prevents these stains from bleeding through the finish coat. If you do not prime in such cases, you’ll need several layers of finish coat to cover up the stains. This might cost you much more.

In general, priming ensures your paint stays and looks good in years to come. It gives your exterior stucco process a professional result.

Materials You Need for Priming

• Paint roller
• Paint roller cover
• Extension rods
• Painters tape
• Primer
• Fine grit sandpaper
• Sanding sponges
• Paint thinner
• Paint mixer
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint scraper
• Safety glasses
• Step ladder
• Paintbrush
• “2” angled paint brush
• Paint trays

Procedures for Priming

Before you Primer your Exterior stucco home wall ready for Plastering:

• Use painter’s tape to mask moldings, trim windows, and ceilings.

• Dampen your roller and brush so that the primer does not stick to them. If you are using latex primer dampen with water, but for oil-based primer, use paint thinner or mineral spirit to dampen your rollers and brush.

• Mix the primer thoroughly by stirring it. Your primer should be a lighter shade of the color you intend to use for the finish of painting your wall.

• Pour the primer into a paint tray. Begin priming by outlining the wall with a 2-3 inches board around the edges.

Use a “2” inch angle brush to apply primer on all corners or places where walks, moldings, and ceilings meet.

• Start with a single vertical stripe at the corners of the wall, then apply in 3×3 foot second, working from top to bottom. Do this in a series of “V” or “W” patterns until the wall is covered.

• Move the roller from one side of the wall to another and ensure it overlaps wet areas.

• If you need a second coat, allow the first coat to dry for a couple of minutes, then apply a second coat.

• Allow the second coat to dry properly, the slightly sand away bumps and ridges using fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe the wall surface clean with a damp towel.

• When your wall has dried completely, you can go ahead to paint.

Conclusion

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the final step to take before painting your insulated wall. This process is relevant to achieving a shining effect on the finished wall. It enhances its beauty and ensures it stays the same for a good number of years. If you’ve followed the process from scratch, you do not want to miss out on this stage.

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Applying the basecoat cement to your exterior wall after your EPS installation adds to the primary aim of EIFS insulation. It strengthens the wall, reinforces it to make it enduring. This article contains a step-by-step guide for cementing your EPS insulated wall with a basecoat. It will all depend on how it’s being applied… Let’s leave some of this for later!

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

What is Basecoat?

Basecoat is a grey cement-based adhesive produced from a mixture of Portland cement, mineral fillers, texturing aggregate, and hydrated lime.

DuRock B2000 is an acrylic-modified cementitious dry mix base coat designed for use over Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). B2000 forms a strong yet flexible, crack-resistant base coat that is intended for use on the exterior, above-grade portion of ICF foundation walls. B2000 has high flexural and bond strength, is water vapor permeable, and has excellent freeze/thaw stability with low water absorption and low shrinkage.

Basecoat serves as a bedding adhesive to attach EPS boards to a substrate. The cement-based basecoat is also used to embed in the fiberglass mesh on polystyrene (EPS) thermal insulation systems as an additional layer for reinforcement or endurance.

It contains polymer-modified binders to make for strong adhesion, increased flexibility, improved crack resistance, and durability. Therefore, the basecoat is highly durable, elastic, quick-drying, and possesses outstanding frost resistance properties.

When using a basecoat for reinforcement, the fiberglass mesh should be placed on top of the EPS thermal insulation system to form the reinforcement layer. Very importantly, the underlying insulation has to be leveled and without any gaps or external debris. Neglect of this may lead to a compromise on the quality of the reinforcement installation process.

Also, you have to store the basecoat correctly to ensure the product does not exhibit any form of inconsistency throughout the application process.

Cementing Basecoat for Endurance

When cementing basecoat for endurance or as part of the reinforcement layer, you should ensure that there are no uneven parts on the insulation boards. Check for uneven parts and level them before you proceed with the application of the basecoat.

You can level the EPS insulation by rasping the entire surface of the EPS-covered wall. Check out Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: Leveling Insulation EPS detailed information on how to level your EPS insulation.

Also,o check for holes on the wall and cover them up. You can use the basecoat to fill the holes in the wall.

If you are working on a painted substrate, you must remove the paint using methods that ensure that no more than 10% of the remaining surface has been painted.

Mixing the Basecoat

The basecoat comes in the form of dry cement, you have to mix it with water just like the cement used for a building before applying it.

For mixing the basecoat, which is the first thing you should do, you may have to carefully follow a guideline. The reason is that there is a required consistency of the basecoat mixture that achieves the desired result. 

If the consistency is not appropriate for cementing, the basecoat may end up dropping down from your wall or take more days to set. In general, you will not have the best experience working with it and this might result in total waste. You should follow these steps to mix the basecoat

• Use clean equipment for mixing and preparation.

• Thoroughly mix one 55 lb. (25 kg) EPS Basecoat pail with up to 1 gallon (3.8L) of water.

• Use a heavy-duty 1/2 inches (13mm) drill with a rust-free paddle at 400-500 rpm.

• Divide the mixture equally into two buckets.

• Pre-measure 55 lb. (25 kg) of portland cement. Add half of the portland cement, 27.5 lb (5.67 kg) to each bucket.

• Stir. While stirring the Basecoat, regularly add small amounts of cement in increments to obtain a final weight (ratio of 1:1)

• You may need to add a little amount of clean water (maximum 16 oz. (0.47 L) if need be to adjust workability.

Not that you should allow the mixture to stand for five minutes after the first mixing, then stir again (re-tempering). However, you should do the re-tempering only once as required for workability.

Also, endeavor to use the mixture immediately after tempering and ensure to keep the container closed when not in use. You may mix the basecoat in batches, probably two for convenience.

Applying the Basecoat to EPS Insulated Wall

First off, you should measure out the fiberglass mesh you will be using. The fiberglass Mesh is made of neatly woven fiberglass thread. This mesh is used in most cases for plastering and rendering for wall reinforcement, external wall insulation, and roof waterproofing. Fiberglass mesh comes in various sizes, For the window screen, you will need an 18-by-16 mesh.

To cut the mesh, use a 6-inch taping knife to poke fiberglass tape into inside corners, then press down both sides firmly. For maximum joint strength, keep the mesh centered in the corner. Run this layer of tape over the pieces that you applied to the tapered seams.

In all, you should not cut the mesh in such a way that leaves it with a jagged edge. Cut through the little rows of squares to get a straight edge. After you’ve measured out your mesh, then:

• Pour a little portion of the already mixed basecoat into a flat board, hold on one hand.

• Take your notched trowel, on the other hand, use it to take the basecoat from the board in bits.

You should not just try to scoop it carelessly to avoid messing up the whole process, scoop and cut the basecoat off on the board.

• Apply the mixture in your trowel unto the wall in an upward movement direction (start from the bottom and swipe up).

• Apply the coat again, from top to bottom this time.

You should mix a sufficient amount of basecoat before you begin the application process. The application starts setting all.ost immediately you leave it and when you work it up again you might not have the best results.

Also, the basecoat should not be too thick nor too thin on the wall, the thickness of the basecoat on the wall should be ⅙ thickness. So, ensure to put the right amount of from the start because the general rule of thumb is, a minimal amount of movement.

Applying the Fiberglass Mesh

• Place the edge of the mesh at the edge of your wall and roll gradually roll out the mesh
• In the process, use your trowel to embed the mesh (smoothen it out as you roll to avoid wrinkles).

You check again to ensure that the basecoat is not too thick or too thin after you’ve embedded the mesh. This is how to check: as you smoother the mesh over the coated wall, it should feel and sound smooth. If the trowel against the wall produces a rough sound or you can see the lines of the mesh, then the coating is too thin.

Points to Note in Cementing with Basecoat for Endurance

• The ambient, as well as surface temperature, must be or higher, preferably 40°F (4°C) during application and curing time.
• Make room for supplemental heat and protection from moisture.
• The surfaces of your wall must be leveled, dry, clean, unpainted, and free from any residue for utmost results.
• Don’t apply a basecoat in direct sunlight or hot weather.
• Do not use basecoat as a leveler for EPS, rasp EPS for leveling.

Conclusion

Cementing your EPS-covered wall is necessary for endurance (to increase the strength of the wall). You could follow the above procedure to achieve the best results.

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Leveling and Rasping the Styrofoam wall is the process nobody likes from the contractor side to Homeowner. As a matter of fact One of The reasons why is because it releases a huge amount of styrofoam flying around. As a matter of fact, if the area is not being covered with tarps or mesh.

Usually, Neighbors and homeowners will have to agree on this s part of the job as it can really get dusty and look like it’s winter. Have you ever been close to a house in the process of doing stucco? you know what I meant. Leveling insulation EPS helps achieve an even and smooth surface. And, this process is not rocket science, it’s just as easy if you know what to do.

Here, you will find out how to level your insulation EPS. We have broken the process down into actionable steps to help you get the best result. And You will then learn furthermore about the EPS.

What is Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)?

EPS foam is simply any form of expanded polystyrene. EPS is used in the building industry as an insulating material for walls, foundations, and roofing. They make the building resistant to degrading forces.

Expanded Polystyrene is produced in different densities (usually 20 – 200 mm) and with graphite for thermal enhancement to provide an insulation material.

EPS insulation is a lightweight, rigid, closed-cell insulation. This closed-cell structure provides minimal water absorption and low vapor permanence.

EPS production involves 2 major stages:

• Raw beads are expanded by applying steam to them to create pre-puff beads. These beads are then cured in large bags and afterward taken to the mold.

• Once its in the mold, the steaming process is repeated on the pre-puff beads to form a block that is around 37-1/2″ – 54″ x 49″ x 121-1/2″ – 220″. Then the blocks are placed on the storage floor to age for the appropriate length of time and further cut into various shapes and sizes.

Blocks are produced in several densities to meet specific project needs. Density is a measure of mass per volume. EPS is measured in pounds per cubic foot (lbs/pcf). The Insulation Company of America manufactures expanded polystyrene in the following minimum densities:

• 0.70 lbs/pcf
• 0.90 lbs/pcf
• 1.15 lbs/pcf
• 1.35 lbs/pcf
• 1.80 lbs/pcf
• 2.40 lbs/pcf
• 2.85 lbs/pcf

Benefits Of EPS Insulation

#1. Low cost

EPS is one of the low-cost rigid insulation options. And, even though it is very cost-effective, it does not compromise thermal performance.

In comparison to PIR, a 100 mm thick PIR will give a thermal resistance of 4.54 m2K/W. A PlusTherm EPS of 135 mm thick will achieve the same result while saving up to 50% on cost.

#2. Thermal Performance

Long story short, EPS provides an excellent thermal performance as a result of its structure. The quality of graphite used for Grey EPS makes it absorb radiant energy effectively, thereby enhancing its thermal conductivity to 0.030 W/mK.

#3. Compressive Strength

It’s remarcable The compression ability of EPS makes it an outstanding construction material for structural fills as well as flooring. EPS comes in various densities which are categorized according to BS EN 13163 standards to fulfill the minimum design strength for each project.

#4. Lightweight

EPS is made of roughly 98% air and only 2% plastic, and this is light. Lightweight construction materials have an edge over heavier materials in construction. They adapt more to the environment and you can easily move them around.

#5. Durability

EPS is a durable and permanent material for construction; it is hardly susceptible to insects, bacteria, and fungi. With that said It can last for up to 100 years when you prescribe and install it correctly. Expanded Polystyrene meanwhile is inert – when installed underground, it does not leach into the soil or groundwater.

#6. Safe to Use

EPS is not dangerous to health, unlike other insulation materials. It is non-toxic, non-irritant, chemically inert, and without odor, making for safe usage across all construction applications.

#7. Sustainability

Expanded polystyrene is very “Green”. EPS Insulation is composed of organic elements – carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and does not contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs).

Therefore, EPS has minimal Global Warming Potential and zero Ozone Depletion Potential. It is also 100% recyclable and can be used to create other products.

#8. Water-Resistant

The closed-cell pattern of EPS makes it resistant to water absorption. Its mechanical and thermal properties are not also influenced by humidity.

#9. Easy to Install

As a matter of fact EPS is lightweight and thus easy to Install. You do not necessarily need special equipment or skill for EPS insulation, you can always do it yourself.

Installing Insulation EPS

You can install EPS insulation onto your wall using any of these four ways:

• Full-surface adhesion
• Spot-edge adhesion
• Applying adhesive mortar to the EPS insulation board using a machine, or
• Applying adhesive mortar to the wall using a machine.

Full-Surface Bonding

This approach is only feasible for a smooth substrate.

• Apply bonding mortar to the full surface.
• Use a 15×15 mm toothed trowel for toothing without holding the trowel at too flat an angle.
• Trowel off the edges.
• Press and align the insulation boards.
• Use an emery board to fix the board.

You should thoroughly remove bonding mortar between boards’ joints immediately to prevent the formation of thermal bridges.

Spot-Edge Bonding

• Apply an all-around adhesive bid.

• Apply 6 adhesive fixing dabs to the board surface.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

Never the less The bonded portion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and the insulation board.

• Align the insulation boards.

Applying Adhesive Mortar to the EPS Insulation Board Using a Machine

• Apply an all-around adhesive bead with an enclosed W.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

The bonded proportion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and the insulation board.

• Align the insulation bonds.

Applying Adhesive Mortar to the Wall Using a Machine

Just like the first method, this method is only used for smooth substrates.

• Apply an adhesive board in sinus lines using a maximum spacing of 10 mm to the wall.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

A matter of fact The bonded proportion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and then the insulation board.

• Align the insulation boards.

You can achieve an adhesive mortar by mixing the dry bonding agent with water to the desired consistency.

EPS Insulation Guidelines

• The insulation boards must be about.

• Always install boards from bottom to top.

• The board joints must show a sufficient offset. Where necessary, provide a sufficient offset between the joint of the starter track and the joint of the insulation board of the first board row.

• At building corners, the insulation boards should be toothed.

• Make sure to align the insulation boards.

• Depending on the substrate, win loads, building heights, etc, you should do well with the insulation boards after attaching them.

Leveling Insulation EPS

Leveling your insulation EPS, as a result, makes it smooth and fine, thus revealing the aesthetic properties. Here’s how to level your insulation EPS after you’ve installed it.

• Check for the uneven parts in your EPS insulation and shave them off

• Apply a base coat of stucco adhesive mixture to the EPS insulation using a trowel. And You may Start applying from down then move upwards to feather get a even finish.

• Apply fiberglass mesh

• And Apply another layer of adhesive that as a result will healp to cover the mesh

Now, you are ready to coat with paint or a stucco finish.

Conclusion

You could follow the above steps for leveling insulation EPS.

The post Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: “Leveling/Rasping Insulation EPS” appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Stucco makes your wall durable and resilient so that it lasts longer. This is as a result of the thorough process involved in installing it.

However, although Stucco is designed to resist the effect of moisture on your wall, little common errors make it prone to water penetration. 

Moisture in the structure can have serious long-term consequences on Stucco walls. Hence, the moisture-proof stage is vital to strengthen your wall against water penetration. 

This article will show you the need for moisture-proofing of your structure. Also, you will learn the various approaches to waterproofing Stucco.

Is The Moisture Proof Stage Necessary?

The moisture-proof stage is very vital because the slightest crack or opening in a Stucco wall allows moisture to seep into and get trapped in the material. This can result in rotting, damage, and mold. 

With this in mind, the moisture-proof stage which you can also refer to as waterproofing Stucco is necessary. 

How to Moisture Proof a wall?

Proper waterproofing of Stucco is a three-part process that requires in-depth construction knowledge. There are different ways to waterproof Stucco, they include:

#1. Paint the Wall

One of the easiest ways to waterproof Stucco is by applying waterproof paint. But, although the easiest, this method is also the riskiest. Any damage to the paint can compromise the Stucco and render it useless.

This approach just requires two steps which include:

• Clean the wall

Clean the Stucco with a soap and water mixture to eliminate dirt and debris.

• Paint Wall

Apply the waterproof paint directly onto the clean and dry Plywood wall and let it air dry.

#2. Use Stucco Sealant 

A more durable and reliable method is using a Stucco sealer. Sealants are specially designed to prevent moisture penetration in Stucco. The method of applying a waterproof sealant is the same as painting a Stucco. Simply paint the sealant onto the Stucco and allow it to air dry.

However, this method is also not entirely reliable. 

#3. Use a Waterproof Barrier: Sheathing

The strength of a Stucco lies in its thickness, that’s why the layering approach is more preferred than the painting or sealing method.

The primary material used for internal construction for most walls is wood, and this makes these walls highly prone to rot and decay. These walls then need to be sufficiently protected against moisture.

Another great way to add waterproofing to Stucco is to apply a waterproof barrier before the Stucco, overlapping the walls with layers of the barrier. By doing so you add a layer of waterproof protection. 

This is how to use a waterproof barrier to moisture-proof Stucco.

• Clean the Wall

Wipe the wall surface with a towel to get rid of all dirt and debris.

• Roll out Barrier

You need to roll out the barrier because they come in small rolls with a plastic backing that protects the adhesive surface of the barrier. Work with a roll at a time. 

Start with the first roll and unroll the barrier with the plastic facing upward. Remove the plastic cover from the back of the barrier so that the adhesive surface of the barrier is visible.

• Apply Barrier

Take up the barrier and cast the adhesive surface onto the wall and apply. Ensure to press and smooth the barrier against the wall so that it creates a firm adhesion. 

Repeat this process until the entire wall has been covered with the waterproof barrier.

Step 4 -Add Stucco

Once you apply the barrier to the wall completely and firmly, you can apply your Stucco directly on top of the barrier.

#4. A Drainage Matrix 

To further strengthen the water-resistant barrier, It’s important to include a system that allows for water drainage. This will prevent moisture from being trapped in the Stucco to avoid spoilage. 

Also known as an air gap, rainscreen gap, 

drainage mat, the drainage matrix provides a channel for any water trapped in the structure to drain. It also has an air gap for evaporation. The air allows for moisture to dry up rather than spread between layers.

The drainage matrix together with the weather-resistant barrier serves as an effective design to waterproof Stucco.

#5. Flashing

Flashing handles water that can enter through the openings in the Stucco wall and store up behind the Stucco. Also, openings around windows.

Metal flashing, therefore, is essential for hedging water from penetrating through these openings. You install flashing around all places where doors and windows meet the Stucco to make it watertight.

You should use layers of water-resistant barriers on the window sides and beneath the bottom window flanges. To prevent water intrusion into roof and Stucco intersections, kick-out flashing is perfect.

You should also use a water-resistant barrier at the top of the Stucco walls. In addition, rain gutters provide a level of protection.

Even though flashing is easy to install, if not done properly, it can cause more harm than good. It will cause water to be directed into the cracks instead of away from them. And this improper water channeling can weaken the adhesive that joins the flash to the wall. 

The disadvantage of flashing is that it may be late before you realize that it was not properly done. You can only detect a flashing that was installed wrongly when the damages from the moisture become visible. But, with a moisture analysis, you can know if your Stucco has an opening that allows water penetration.

How to Check Moisture in Your Stucco Wall

There are different ways to check for moisture in Stucco walls, they include:

• Infrared Camera: With the use of an infrared camera you can know if moisture Is trapped in your Stucco wall. However, this method is not reliable because it shows where the Stucco is cooler, and that’s no solid proof of moisture In the wall.

• Video Scope: Here, you use a small camera to inspect the wall cavity for moisture. Yet, this method has its shortcomings.

Most walls are insulated so that you can barely see into them. Also, video scope testing will not detect areas of elevated moisture levels.

• Interior Probe Testing: This method is really limited when it comes to moisture content probing.

• Exterior Problem Testing: This method is preferred to the others and has been in use over the years. 

You check for water in the wall by drilling small holes in the Stucco at specific points, then check using a moisture probe. This is not as complicated as other methods, but it gets the job done.

Generally, the best way to check moisture is through exterior probing. It offers a more thorough means of investigating moisture content and can access areas that are inaccessible with the interior probing.

Conclusion

Moisture can do great harm to Stucco walls, yet Stucco walls are susceptible to moisture. Hence the need for moisture-proof. However, different types of moisture-proof produce varying results. 

But using a waterproof barrier, together with a drainage metric and proper metal flashing is sure to produce utmost resilience and durability.

Also, it is recommended that you employ the services of a professional, rather than do it yourself. This is because of the complexity of the structure and the essence of waterproofing Stucco.

The post The Ultimate Guide Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: “Moisture-Proof and Sealing Stage” appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Just like Ontario in August; even your exterior stucco home has to confront the situation when it occurs.

If you live in an area where a significant storm is forecasted, your loved ones are your priority. Regardless of exterior stucco investment, you need to evacuate. Choosing the best condition of your siding is essential and may positively aid your home in the long run. You need to consider strong sidling and foundation that may probably resist Ontario hurricanes; you can spend less time worrying about minor details. Just read along.

So Generally speaking…

Your home will only remain standing following a natural event if it has a solid foundation and a solid structural building. It is usual for a tornado or Ontario hurricane to cause significant damage. If your siding flies off, it’s not a significant concern. But you could reduce this damage by keeping an eye on the exterior synthetic stucco.

Advantages of a stucco house in harsh season

Composition of Portland cement, sand, lime, and water for stucco siding, used over a lath base, applied in three coats can go a long way to provide a solid, durable, and seamless exterior stucco home. Which may withstand a magnitude of Hurricane or tornadoes?

How can a home withstand hurricanes and tornadoes?

1. Window and door: It’s a must to have appropriate windows and doors that could serve as a resistance to you before this odd situation. Proper installation can handle up to 150 mph tornadoes, so they should withstand a Category 4 hurricane.
2. Roof Design: A-frame roof on a stucco house must not be flat. And asserted on stucco home is strong enough to withstand some hurricane and tornadoes of 300 miles per hour.
3. Roofing Material: What roofing material is best to help protect against hurricanes or tornadoes. Metal and asphalt shingle roofing have many advantages. Because of the risk of damage from a storm, most people consider metal roofing the best option. A warranty covers most types of metal, which is good for the wind reaching a speed of 140 mph.
4. Building Shape: Circular stucco homes have an advantage over traditional rectangular dwellings in terms of aerodynamics. Linton says, “It’s obvious that the wind will go around it.” “That essentially means that Deltec homes have about 30% less wind pressure than rectangular homes.”

Some stucco structures have remained vital for many years, surviving Ontario hurricanes, tornadoes, heavy winds, hail, and severe rain. If you follow current building codes with your stucco home, it may stand firm when others on the houses are destroyed. With the strength to resist hurricanes, you can spend less time worrying. Just contact our specialist for advice and support.

Whether your home is in a hurricane-prone or storm-prone area, you should be able to save money and safeguard your home by choosing the right siding. Most homeowners don’t think about replacing their siding before a storm.

The Fact

However, your home’s exterior wall, which is the part that’s impacted the most during a hurricane or tornadoes, is the very reason you should install the best siding for your home. Even if you cannot replace your siding right now, there are steps you can take to safeguard your home.

Painting the siding with water- and wind-resistant paint will protect it from water damage from heavy rain. Nearly all colors with waterproof properties are suitable for use on all siding types.

Best siding for Hurricane Season

It’s your responsibility to check your exterior stucco homes for cracks, tears, and other wear and tear a month before the new or hurricane season begins. Is there any poorly fitted cladding or loose boards? Are there any missing or broken siding pieces or areas of possible water intrusion? Even if you can’t immediately replace the siding, you can address any loose boards or holes and seal cracks.

Siding

Starting a significant remodeling project, like replacing your siding, should not be done within a month of the beginning of hurricane season. There is a chance that you’ll run out of time, that a storm could occur early, or that you’ll have to take a detour to complete the job before the weather turns. It would help if you did not take any shortcuts or rush the process regarding the quality of your siding installation.

Most siding manufacturers subject their products to extensive testing. They search for material that will withstand winds and debris impacts, such as branches and twigs. Finding quality siding for a house is an essential task that a good contractor can assist with.

Wood siding

Old homes with wood siding are vulnerable to severe storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, and saltwater. If you live in a historic district and are forced to use wood siding, make sure you use high-quality wood, metal flash corners, and seal the joints well. Furthermore, paint the siding with water-resistant paint.

Vinyl Siding

Many homeowners choose vinyl siding because of its inexpensive cost and ease of maintenance; the panels can suffer from weather-related damage, like tearing and cracking. According to FEMA, vinyl siding that can resist wind speeds of up to 110 mph and torrential rain is storm-ready—ensuring the vinyl materials meet their quality standards. Vinyl is ideal for people living in moderate-climate areas, and it will survive moderate storms or hurricanes.

Every landlord will find the upcoming hurricane season a complex challenge. As we enter the new hurricane season, which runs from June to November, the experts expect a more intense one than usual, predicting 17 tropical storms, eight of which will be hurricanes. To keep yourself safe against all elements, budget time to evaluate all of the core components of your home structure. So they may at least withstand a little stress from Ontario hurricanes and tornadoes.

For advice, care about your exterior stucco home, building tips, and stucco renovation for your home. Contact us today

The post A Great Article About Exterior Stucco And Harsh (Hurricane And Tornado) Season appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Modern contemporary designs include several layered finishes of synthetic stucco, brick, wood, vinyl, stone, etc.

Whether you decide to build or remodel your beloved home, choosing the suitable exterior side material can make a tremendous difference in the sensation of your property. 

Synthetic stucco and brick are several of the most prestigious selections on the market. Well, for a long time, both can make your home exterior outstanding. It is excellent for building a new home or for upgrading an existing one. 

Now let’s consider the tips to deciding the best material for your dream home. Ensure your decision is guided by each product’s present, future adaptability, flexibility, and construction styles.

Synthetic Stucco or Brick: What better? 

Although they both offer many benefits, they have significant downsides. Stucco’s many qualities distinguish it from bricks. Brick maintains the same color throughout its life span but can paint stucco surfaces with any color. Brick is also rigid and more consistent than stucco. 

Factors to Consider When Choosing

Uniqueness: Synthetic stucco can be bent and curved without influencing the structure of the Stucco while Brick can not be bent, but only modeled for the suitable task

Stucco is also a durable product in diverse climates capable of withstanding rain, snow, and heat. However, Bricks is also a sustainable product, but their repair costs can exceed the actual plan. 

Cost: Although stucco may initially be more expensive, its features allow it to stand than brick and develop architectural designs that brick would not have done. Each of these materials has different pricing properties. 

Energy Efficiency: Brick’s and synthetic stucco’s energy efficiency varies in a little way. Both have an R-value of about 0.4, half that of a woodside, so the material is resistant to heat flow. 

Maintenance: Honestly, both item has a good maintenance culture. Brick is a fantastic choice if you want to have lasting and low maintenance on your exterior. No need for painting, screening, rotting or denting. 

In another way, stucco needs a lot more care over the years. Since it is porous, objects such as tree sap may discolor, and cracks can occur much more often because of the texture. 

Durability: When it comes to lifespan, Brick and Stucco have the same durability. Both siding materials include a professional installation of mortar and grout. 

Brick is a longer-lasting choice. Stucco sides are sensitive to rot and mold growth in places of high humidity, such as the Pacific to the northwest. Brick can also better withstand the unavoidable freeze-thaw cycle, while severe winter circumstances affect stucco siding. 

Installation: Stucco or brick installation is not an easy operation for DIY. It is far better to contract these jobs to specialists. Labor costs for the Stucco system are, however, considerably lower than those for facing bricks. So Stucco is usually cheaper. Stucco is installed in several phases, and numerous changes depend on how you use it or want it. 

Appearance: You can’t go wrong with the brick siding if you want a traditional and eco-friendly timeless appeal. It is also ideal for historical and contemporary houses. 

However, the color range is limited instead of Stucco. Clever look and a wide range of colors, whether tinting a stucco blend or painting once healed, make Stucco more popular. It is best used in contemporary designs or houses in the country. 

Flexibility: While it may be tough to choose between the two, it depends on individual desire and several circumstances. Stucco can be more flexible than its counterpart.

Due to this flexibility, repairs and upkeep can surpass expectations. Stucco lasts but can also offer a chance to be innovative in building and finally, in all its aspects, will become less expensive than Brick. 

Choosing The Best Exterior

Although choosing between the two may be difficult, the decision is dependent on individual preference and a range of factors:

• Flexibility
• Durability
• Contruction style, 
• Future adaptability
• And repair and maintenance costs 

After considering the above factors, make your decision and swing to action. It is very confident with the opportunity ahead, and both will provide an imaginative construction. Let us now consider its external ability.

Exterior Brick styles 

External bricks are fantastic and appealing. It requires little upkeep and improves the value of resale. They also prevent noise and are fireproof. 

However, if the Brick gets damaged, it will be more costly and difficult to adjust the old or weathered Brick to the new color. Brick is less expensive and easier to lay than Stucco. Brick appears giant and has identical thicknesses. 

External Stucco Style 

The exterior Stucco is quite popular with freshly built structures, particularly on the south and west coasts. Stucco is a cement substance, so it is fire-resistant as well. 

Stucco, like a brick, is relatively maintenance-free. However, it might be incredibly pricey to install this kind of exterior. Over time, Stucco can crack; however, cracking is frequently easy to amend, and the owner can save money. 

Properties of Bricks and Stucco

Many people compare Stucco to Brick or vice versa because both are attractive and pragmatic materials, yet the two materials are different. 

Bricks: Pros and cons 

When investigating these possibilities, there are numerous factors to mind. Below are the pros and cons of Brick. 

Pros 

1. Brick is extraordinarily durable, over a century. 
2. Can be able to resist several elements, like fire, insects, and damaging winds. 
3. Brick preserves your home’s façade. 
4. You may paint Brick for a new aesthetic. 
5. Brick is highly valued and can provide significant rewards. 

Cons 

1. Brick can be pricey and can be expensive. 
2. Installation may take up to several weeks. 
3. The placement of bricks is complex and requires abilities in masonry. 
4. DIY might not be possible; the work of specialists is better. 

Synthetic Stucco: pros and Cons

Stucco may be a better choice, but it has drawbacks for the exterior of your home. Here are several things to consider when it comes to Stucco. 

Pros 

1. Stucco is versatile. Smooth swirls and gallstones can be created. 
2. Stucco is fire resistant. It can slow down the spread of flames, making it perfect for areas where houses are closer by. 
3. Stucco siding can be tightened and repainted to provide soft, subtle colours or bright eyes to modernize the look. 
4. It takes only days to install stucco. 
5. Stucco is also perfect for dry, moderate locations. 

Cons 

1. If your base settles, stucco siding may be slippery and break down. 
2. Stucco provides no sound isolation. 
3. Stucco siding expenses can be high, especially for wood-frame homes. 
4. Recommendable for installation by qualified specialists and is not appropriate for DIYers. 

Stucco Design Flexibility 

Synthetic stucco provides a range of design flexibility specific to the neighborhood and home. Because of the texture! Regardless of your aesthetics, stucco texture options are always glamorous for your desired look.

The versatility of colors and various stucco constructions can produce a spectacular appearance that will make you proud. Stucco is appealing, long-lasting material featured in homes throughout the country. Expect the best result when you build your home with stucco. 

Combination of Both

Do you know stucco and brick could go well together? They make a very eloquent combination during construction, and you could get some of this great innovation and build lovely and astonishing new designs for your next project. Ask us how?

The choice of siding can be challenging to overcome. Let us help you to identify the best option, as you consider either brick or stucco. See our siding & cost guide to start your new project.

The post Pros And Cons Of Synthetic Stucco That You Should Know appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.