The post [SOLVED] Unveiling the Secrets: Your Top Questions Answered on Quality and Longevity in Stucco Acrylic EIFS Home Renovations with Sky Stucco Systems VOLUME 2 appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Although Traditional stucco is extremely strong and is normally maintenance-free, if Cracks start showin up, it’s essential to get it fixed fast to prevent watter filtration behing the layers of the stucco. If moisture gets behind this scratch coat layer, it cannot escape and can quickly cause mold and rot. With the correct tools and materials, you can successfully restore small areas of damage yourself. Read the five-step guide below to learn how to complete a long-lasting repair.

The Tools Needed to Repair Synthetic Stucco

As with any DIY project, having the right tools for the job is important and can make all the difference to the result. Make sure you have all the equipment you need before you start work. When it comes to fixing synthetic stucco, you need the following tools:

• Ladder
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Gloves
• Safety glasses
• Trowel
• Putty knife
• Paintbrush

These are the tools required to prep the area, apply the new polymer layer, and finish the surface to blend in with the rest of the wall. When the stucco is completely cured, a coat of paint may be applied to match the original exterior. A ladder is only required if the repair area is out of reach.

Buy Quality Materials

Only purchase the best materials that are recommended for patch repairs to ensure a professional synthetic stucco repair. Don’t be tempted to pick up cheap substitutes; always use a recognised brand that manufactures quality products. If you are going to take the time and trouble to renovate your stucco, ensure it is a durable repair that you can be proud of.

• Synthetic stucco repair mix/polymer mix 
• Waterproof caulk
• Paint to match the rest of the area

Make sure you purchase enough to finish the job but don’t waste money by buying or preparing too much. 

Repair Your Synthetic Stucco in Five Easy Steps

1. Preparation is key

Put the work in at the prep stage to ensure a robust finish. Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your eyes and hands from broken or toxic material.

Start by removing loose and broken stucco; a hammer and chisel will remove stubborn pieces. You must remove anything that is not solid and secure.

Use the putty knife to widen narrow cracks – this will give you a better result because the repair mix can achieve stronger adhesion.

At this point, it is very important to take a look to determine whether water has got behind the synthetic stucco. Do not complete a repair if moisture has compromised the outer layer. This is because a synthetic stucco repair seals wetness inside and will cause major issues to your home. Call in the professionals if you are not sure to avoid expensive repairs later.

2. Get the area ready for new stucco

For small repairs, you simply need to clean all gaps meticulously. Sweep away dust and tiny particles to ensure good adhesion – you might consider using a vacuum or blower to do this thoroughly.

For larger areas, you will need to install areas of wire mesh and board, and it is strongly advised to get a professional to complete this type of repair. In some cases, it is better to have a whole new side installed to make sure further issues are not caused by a repair.

3. Mix the new stucco

Don’t mix the polymer synthetic stucco mix until everything else is ready. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully because each repair kit is different.

For very small areas or patches around windows or doors, a waterproof caulk can be used for repairs.

4. Applying the stucco

Using a trowel or putty knife, fill the cracks and gaps with the polymer. Simply fill the holes and smooth the material so it is level with the rest of the stucco.

The surface of your polymer application should mimic the surrounding finish – some exteriors have smooth finishes, and others have ripples or swirls. You might need to experiment with different textures to achieve a good match. Try brushes and trowels or other tools to get the desired look. The better the match, the happier you will be with the result.

5. Cure time

Leave the repair patch for the recommended time before doing anything more. Some materials will be fully cured within 24 hours, but others may take longer. Read the instructions for the precise cure time.

Once the stucco is completely dry, you can finish with a coat of approved acrylic paint to match the rest of the wall. You may need a couple of coats to seal the stucco completely. If you cannot match the existing paint color, it might be time to repaint the whole exterior of your home.

The Bottom Line

Missing or damaged synthetic stucco can lead to problems. Rain, snow, humidity and harsh sunlight can get under the exterior surface of your walls and create structural issues. Dealing with any damage promptly is essential, and you can repair small areas of cracked and broken stucco yourself using the five-step guide above.

To achieve a quality repair, having the right tools for the job is important – and if you already own all the equipment needed, fixing synthetic stucco is not expensive. However, if you don’t have all the required tools, or the property is not your main residence, consider using a facility management company. Consider hiring a trusted expert is more cost and time-effective, and a quality result is assured.

The post How To Fix Damaged Synthetic Stucco appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

If you have a specific question that is not directly addressed below, feel free to submit it through our contact form and we will be happy to respond as quickly as possible. The first one that comes to people’s minds is What is Stucco? how strong is stucco? is Stucco Heat Resistant?

1. How do I know if my home is finished with a true EIFS?

To find out if your house is finished with a proper EIFS, you can try to carefully tap on it as you would a door.  If it sounds hollow, it is probably an EIFS.  If the sound is more solid in nature, it is likely a plaster stucco product.  In the case that you feel the wall has a very coarse texture, this would be another indicator that a stucco product has been applied.

It is important to note, however, that EIFS coatings can also be applied without insulation directly onto hard sheathing boards, like cement boards.  Rapping on this type of application will also produce a solid sound, similar to stucco.

2. How do I know which manufacturer’s EIFS product is on my home?

It can be difficult to know which brand of EIFS has been installed, as most brands of EIFS look the same.  You can try contacting the general contractor who built the house, or the contractor who has experience on EIFS, if you can obtain their contact information – they may recall which brand of EIFS was installed on your home.  Always is good to verify as it’s a good practice no to rely 100% upon on what is written in the building specifications since they will often mention a certain brand while another brand is actually installed.

3. Can I identify the EIFS brand from its mesh color?

Some brands of EIFS can be identified by the color of the mesh.  Knowing that this may provide a starting point, it is not a reliable determining factor.  Also keep in mind that once the mesh is buried within the basecoat, it will be difficult to determine its color.  If you can see the mesh color, some common identifiers for EIFS brands are:

4. Can I repair an EIFS myself?

EIFS is not a do-it-yourself product.  It is recommended to hire a certified EIFS contractor.

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5. The EIFS is leaking. How do I inspect it?

Customarily, the EIFS itself does not leak.  Leaks almost always occur at the edge of the EIFS, either at an opening (such as a window), a penetration (like a deck beam), or at a flashing/sealant joint.  Regarding self-inspection, you can do a quick visual examination for obvious flaws, such as cracks or the lack of caulking, but detailed assessments are best left to professional inspectors.

6. Removing and replacing an EIFS?

When it comes to removing Existing stucco “Demolition”. We look over whether it’s Synthetic with styrofoam insulation or Traditional with multi-layers of cement reinforced with Metal Lath. If it’s Synthetic and there is the need to remove it, we cut away the entire system installed. Including the foam, back to the supporting wall.  The old EIFS cannot be reused.  The supporting wall is then inspected for damage and any required repairs are done and Moisture-proof. This could involve removing studs and/or sheathing, which can be an extensive process.  The new EIFS is then applied over the repaired wall and is blended into the surrounding EIFS, if and as necessary.

7. I have a barrier-type EIFS on my house and would like to add a drainage-type EIFS to it. Is this possible?

Regrettably, it is not possible to add a drainage-type EIFS to an existing barrier-type EIFS.  To add drainage, the existing EIFS would have to be removed and replaced completely with the new drainage-type EIFS.

8. What is the difference between EIFS and Traditional Stucco?

EIFS may come in several different types, but the typical installation includes the substrate, a polystyrene foam board fastened/glued to the substrate, fiberglass reinforcement mesh, a basecoat (usually 1/16 to 1/4 inches thick), and then a finish coat.

On the other hand, stucco is portland cement plaster.  The stucco assembly usually includes a substrate over the framing members with a moisture barrier present, self-furring metal lath, cement plaster basecoat, and lastly a hard-coat finish.  Both systems have advantages and disadvantages.

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9. How can I tell if I have the newer drainage-type EIFS?

Drainage-type and barrier-type EIFS look virtually identical from the outside, but you may be able to differentiate them by looking under the horizontal edge of the EIFS where it comes to an end, such as at the top of a window or at the bottom of the wall close to the ground.

A drainage-type EIFS will have some sort of gap, flashing, or a perforated piece of metal or plastic trim, to route water from the drainage cavity to the outside. However, the presence of such a gap is not a foolproof indicator, as some barrier-type EIFS also incorporate this feature.  Cutting through the EIFS to check for building paper between the foam and the sheathing is also not a reliable method, as some barrier-type EIFS also incorporate a paper layer.  The paper alone does not produce a true drainage cavity.

Once again, it would be worthwhile to hire an experienced contractor to inspect the EIFS.

10. My EIFS has dots or spots all over it. What is causing this?

Most of the Cases in residential homes EIFS are installed using fasteners screws. These fasteners consist of a large plastic washer and a metal screw.  The washer sits on top of the EIFS insulation and is covered by the EIFS coatings.  The washer is thus just a fraction of an inch from the outside air.  Since the fastener is made of metal and plastic, the washer will be at a different temperature than the surrounding layer of EIFS insulation.  This temperature disparity means that the EIFS coatings retain a different amount of moisture at the fastener than within the surrounding wall.  This in turn makes the EIFS finish look like it is a different color, hence the wall appears to have dots or spots on its surface.

The dots/spots rarely do any harm and usually disappear as the wall’s temperature becomes more consistent throughout, such as during the middle of the day.  This phenomenon is unavoidable but may be reduced by applying a thick initial EIFS basecoat to even out the temperature of the EIFS surface, thus reducing the dotting effect.

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11. How do I repair leaky windows?

If the leak is actually in the interface between the EIFS and the window, a simple solution such as adding caulking to seal the leak will often be effective.  If the leak is coming from the window itself, this sometimes can be repaired with the window in place or the window may need to be replaced entirely (often the case when the window frame is old and rotted).

Removing a window from an EIFS wall can be difficult, as many residential windows use a nail flange to mount the window to the face of the wall sheathing, preventing the window from sliding out of its opening.  It is advisable to hire a professional in these circumstances.

12. Are EIFS repairs visible?

With expert workmanship, repairs will be hard to detect, especially if they extend back to a nearby corner or joint.  Normally, though, the patch will be visible right after it is done.  As the wall ages, the patch blends in and becomes less visible.

13. Can I paint my EIFS?

Yes, you can paint over EIFS treatments in general; however, some EIFS finishes will contain additives that make it difficult for the paint to adhere.  It is best to contact the specific EIFS manufacturer to ask which paints will work on their various finishes.

Luckily, most EIFS formulas are pure acrylic, which means that basic exterior grade acrylic house paints will work just fine.  In any event, it may be wise to perform a small test on an inconspicuous area of the EIFS, letting the paint dry for several days to see if it remains bonded.

Paint is usually applied with a roller on large flat areas of an EIFS while a brush is used in small or intricate areas, such as around windows and in grooves.

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14. There is a hole or a depression in my EIFS.

Can it be repaired by applying base coat and finish into the damaged area?

No, simply plugging a hole in the EIFS with basecoat and finish will not be sufficient, as the so-called plug will eventually fall out.  The best way to repair a hole or a depression properly is to cut the EIFS away (back to the substrate) and apply new foam and coatings to the new insulation.  EIFS manufacturers often provide photos/written instructions of how to proceed, but having a professional EIFS contractor perform the repair will ensure the best result.

15. How long does an EIFS last?

The lifecycle of an EIFS system depends on how well it was initially installed and how well it has been maintained over time.  An example of the required maintenance includes replacing the caulking, which will eventually wear out and lose its effectiveness.

There are some older EIFS projects dating back to the 1950s in Europe and to the late 1960s in North America that remain in very good condition today, occasionally requiring just a fresh coat of paint to freshen their appearance.

16. Is there a difference in quality between EIFS brands?

Since each EIFS manufacturer has its own formulation/composition, there will definitely be a difference in quality between the various brands.  Within the product line of a given brand manufacturer, there are often various grades of EIFS as well, with the higher quality grades usually sold at higher price points.  However, the quality of an installed EIFS system is just as dependent, if not more so, on the installer.

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17. If I am buying an existing EIFS home should I have an EIFS inspection done?

Yes, it is always a good idea to have an existing EIFS inspected by a professional when you may have concerns about the condition/state of repair of a particular installation.  While an EIFS installation may look fine, most problems are hidden below the surface.  A professional inspection will assess the present value of the installation as it relates to the overall value of the home, and also give the buyer and the seller, as well as realtors and insurance agents, a good level of comfort.

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18. We are building a new EIFS home.

What are the most important points that we should consider?

• Have complete drawings and specifications of the EIFS proposed by the home designer
• Carefully follow the EIFS manufacturer’s published design and installation instructions
• Follow the specifications for an EIFS outlined within the local building code requirements
• Hire a qualified and certified EIFS contractor
• Enlist the input/customer service support of the EIFS manufacturer whenever there is any doubt regarding the installation
• Have professional inspections done on the EIFS while it is being installed and again after words

19. Our home is stucco with some EIFS foam shapes on it.

Our insurance agent is appraising the property as if it were an EIFS home. Is this an acceptable practice?

Looking at it From a functional standpoint is considered to be a stucco house if the base walls have a stucco finish. Regardless of any EIFS applied over them as a decorative trim.  In such cases, the EIFS is used simply to enhance the aesthetics of the home and has little effect on the performance of the wall.

20. When is the use of drainage EIFS required?

The use of a drainage-type EIFS is dependent on the local building requirements and is also heavily reliant on the local climate.  It is at the discretion of each homeowner to determine if drainage is a necessary feature in the particular EIFS installation for their home.  Consult with the EIFS manufacturer or local homebuilder for advice pertinent to your specific region.

The post List of 20 Homeowner Questions About EIFS Exterior Stucco appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Exterior stucco home Primer and Plastering Stucco wall. Sanding a wall is a process that no one likes in anyways, very dusty however it removes the sand and imperfections to make the wall very smooth and flat.

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

This stage aims to provide a smooth surface and sheen to your wall so that it doesn’t look dull, uneven, and unattractive after painting. So, it may be correct to say that this stage is designed to enhance the beauty of your Insulated exterior wall.

Sanding the Wall

Sanding a wall is a process that no one likes in anyways, very dusty however it removes the sand and imperfections to make the wall very smooth and flat. This process is quite a simple one, all you need to do is to take your sanding pad and move it around the wall. The sanding should be in an upward and downward direction.

If you do not have a sanding pad, you can use a sanding sponge, although this may take more time. The best way to get a neat outcome with a sanding sponge is the wet sanding method. Fully immerse the sponge in water and squeeze it to remove excess water.

Rub the coarse side of the sanding sponge against the wall in a circular motion, ensuring that you work it into the edges to smooth them. Continue this process until all areas soften and surface, even.

Skim Coating Your Wall

Skim coating is a texturing technique used to make a wall smooth. This technique is useful for hiding imperfections in constructions, to give the wall a plaster-like look. It is also beneficial for situations where a smooth surface is needed.

Exterior stucco home Primer and Plastering Stucco wall

Skim coating is used to achieve a level 5 drywall finish, which is the recommendation for several trade associations for areas of bright lighting. The Painting and Decorating Contractors of America highly recommend a level 5 drywall finish.

Materials You Need for Skim Coating

• Mixing paddle
• 18v cordless drill
• Soft brushes
• Plasterers hawk
• Finishing trowel (float)
• Internal cover trowel
• Bucket trowel
• Scraper
• Trug
• Water

Preparing the Coat

• Pour water into a bucket

• Add the plaster and mix with a mixing paddle. Keep adding the plaster in bits while continually stirring. Be mindful of the consistency, you might want to add a little water if too thick and then mix again.

Ensure to mix thoroughly till it is completely free of lumps.

• Wet all your equipment to prevent the plaster from sticking to them.

• Use the bucket trowel to scrape off all plaster from the sides of the bucket.

• Scoop some portion of the mixture into your plasterers’ hawk, use the trowel to take it from there, and apply to the wall. You should apply in a down to upward direction and from the edges of the wall to the center.

• Use the angle tool to work on the corners of the wall.

• Allow to sit for about 30-45 minutes, then apply the second coat in the manner as the first. The second coat should have a little running consistency than the first coat.

• Allow setting for another 60-90 minutes.

• Use a trowel to smoother the wall (remove lumps and bumps) and skim off excesses. Do not dig in the trowel into the wall, keep the throw at a slight angle.

• After some minutes, say 20-30 minutes, use your trowel to smoother the wall again.

• Polish the wall; dip a brush in water and carefully paint over the wall.

Note: You should use the mixture immediately to prevent it from drying out. The 1st coat should be 2mm thick, while the second coating 1mm thick. Also, remember to work on the corners of your wall using the angle tool.

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Priming the Wall

Why Do You Need to Prime?

Here are the reasons why you should prime your wall:

• Excellent Adhesion

Priming ensures excellent adhesion of the paint to the surface.

• Priming, in most cases, is used to cover dark colors to make it easier for the finish coat to hide better. If you can add some tint to the prime, it may even co er the finish coat better.

• When you are working with a high gloss finish or very smooth surfaces, lightly sanding them and then priming will improve the adhesion of the painting.

• Priming patched areas on your wall are recommended, it allows the finish coat to dry to a uniform sheen. If you do not prime patched areas on a wall, the finish coat will look dull and unattractive over those patched spots.

• Priming is a perfect cover for stains on walls caused by water or smoke, it prevents these stains from bleeding through the finish coat. If you do not prime in such cases, you’ll need several layers of finish coat to cover up the stains. This might cost you much more.

In general, priming ensures your paint stays and looks good in years to come. It gives your exterior stucco process a professional result.

Materials You Need for Priming

• Paint roller
• Paint roller cover
• Extension rods
• Painters tape
• Primer
• Fine grit sandpaper
• Sanding sponges
• Paint thinner
• Paint mixer
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint scraper
• Safety glasses
• Step ladder
• Paintbrush
• “2” angled paint brush
• Paint trays

Procedures for Priming

Before you Primer your Exterior stucco home wall ready for Plastering:

• Use painter’s tape to mask moldings, trim windows, and ceilings.

• Dampen your roller and brush so that the primer does not stick to them. If you are using latex primer dampen with water, but for oil-based primer, use paint thinner or mineral spirit to dampen your rollers and brush.

• Mix the primer thoroughly by stirring it. Your primer should be a lighter shade of the color you intend to use for the finish of painting your wall.

• Pour the primer into a paint tray. Begin priming by outlining the wall with a 2-3 inches board around the edges.

Use a “2” inch angle brush to apply primer on all corners or places where walks, moldings, and ceilings meet.

• Start with a single vertical stripe at the corners of the wall, then apply in 3×3 foot second, working from top to bottom. Do this in a series of “V” or “W” patterns until the wall is covered.

• Move the roller from one side of the wall to another and ensure it overlaps wet areas.

• If you need a second coat, allow the first coat to dry for a couple of minutes, then apply a second coat.

• Allow the second coat to dry properly, the slightly sand away bumps and ridges using fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe the wall surface clean with a damp towel.

• When your wall has dried completely, you can go ahead to paint.

Conclusion

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the final step to take before painting your insulated wall. This process is relevant to achieving a shining effect on the finished wall. It enhances its beauty and ensures it stays the same for a good number of years. If you’ve followed the process from scratch, you do not want to miss out on this stage.

The post Ultimate Guide Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: Primer and Plastering a Stucco Wall” appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Applying the basecoat cement to your exterior wall after your EPS installation adds to the primary aim of EIFS insulation. It strengthens the wall, reinforces it to make it enduring. This article contains a step-by-step guide for cementing your EPS insulated wall with a basecoat. It will all depend on how it’s being applied… Let’s leave some of this for later!

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

Primer and plastering the finished wall is the last stage in this process before painting your exterior home.

What is Basecoat?

Basecoat is a grey cement-based adhesive produced from a mixture of Portland cement, mineral fillers, texturing aggregate, and hydrated lime.

DuRock B2000 is an acrylic-modified cementitious dry mix base coat designed for use over Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). B2000 forms a strong yet flexible, crack-resistant base coat that is intended for use on the exterior, above-grade portion of ICF foundation walls. B2000 has high flexural and bond strength, is water vapor permeable, and has excellent freeze/thaw stability with low water absorption and low shrinkage.

Basecoat serves as a bedding adhesive to attach EPS boards to a substrate. The cement-based basecoat is also used to embed in the fiberglass mesh on polystyrene (EPS) thermal insulation systems as an additional layer for reinforcement or endurance.

It contains polymer-modified binders to make for strong adhesion, increased flexibility, improved crack resistance, and durability. Therefore, the basecoat is highly durable, elastic, quick-drying, and possesses outstanding frost resistance properties.

When using a basecoat for reinforcement, the fiberglass mesh should be placed on top of the EPS thermal insulation system to form the reinforcement layer. Very importantly, the underlying insulation has to be leveled and without any gaps or external debris. Neglect of this may lead to a compromise on the quality of the reinforcement installation process.

Also, you have to store the basecoat correctly to ensure the product does not exhibit any form of inconsistency throughout the application process.

Cementing Basecoat for Endurance

When cementing basecoat for endurance or as part of the reinforcement layer, you should ensure that there are no uneven parts on the insulation boards. Check for uneven parts and level them before you proceed with the application of the basecoat.

You can level the EPS insulation by rasping the entire surface of the EPS-covered wall. Check out Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: Leveling Insulation EPS detailed information on how to level your EPS insulation.

Also,o check for holes on the wall and cover them up. You can use the basecoat to fill the holes in the wall.

If you are working on a painted substrate, you must remove the paint using methods that ensure that no more than 10% of the remaining surface has been painted.

Mixing the Basecoat

The basecoat comes in the form of dry cement, you have to mix it with water just like the cement used for a building before applying it.

For mixing the basecoat, which is the first thing you should do, you may have to carefully follow a guideline. The reason is that there is a required consistency of the basecoat mixture that achieves the desired result. 

If the consistency is not appropriate for cementing, the basecoat may end up dropping down from your wall or take more days to set. In general, you will not have the best experience working with it and this might result in total waste. You should follow these steps to mix the basecoat

• Use clean equipment for mixing and preparation.

• Thoroughly mix one 55 lb. (25 kg) EPS Basecoat pail with up to 1 gallon (3.8L) of water.

• Use a heavy-duty 1/2 inches (13mm) drill with a rust-free paddle at 400-500 rpm.

• Divide the mixture equally into two buckets.

• Pre-measure 55 lb. (25 kg) of portland cement. Add half of the portland cement, 27.5 lb (5.67 kg) to each bucket.

• Stir. While stirring the Basecoat, regularly add small amounts of cement in increments to obtain a final weight (ratio of 1:1)

• You may need to add a little amount of clean water (maximum 16 oz. (0.47 L) if need be to adjust workability.

Not that you should allow the mixture to stand for five minutes after the first mixing, then stir again (re-tempering). However, you should do the re-tempering only once as required for workability.

Also, endeavor to use the mixture immediately after tempering and ensure to keep the container closed when not in use. You may mix the basecoat in batches, probably two for convenience.

Applying the Basecoat to EPS Insulated Wall

First off, you should measure out the fiberglass mesh you will be using. The fiberglass Mesh is made of neatly woven fiberglass thread. This mesh is used in most cases for plastering and rendering for wall reinforcement, external wall insulation, and roof waterproofing. Fiberglass mesh comes in various sizes, For the window screen, you will need an 18-by-16 mesh.

To cut the mesh, use a 6-inch taping knife to poke fiberglass tape into inside corners, then press down both sides firmly. For maximum joint strength, keep the mesh centered in the corner. Run this layer of tape over the pieces that you applied to the tapered seams.

In all, you should not cut the mesh in such a way that leaves it with a jagged edge. Cut through the little rows of squares to get a straight edge. After you’ve measured out your mesh, then:

• Pour a little portion of the already mixed basecoat into a flat board, hold on one hand.

• Take your notched trowel, on the other hand, use it to take the basecoat from the board in bits.

You should not just try to scoop it carelessly to avoid messing up the whole process, scoop and cut the basecoat off on the board.

• Apply the mixture in your trowel unto the wall in an upward movement direction (start from the bottom and swipe up).

• Apply the coat again, from top to bottom this time.

You should mix a sufficient amount of basecoat before you begin the application process. The application starts setting all.ost immediately you leave it and when you work it up again you might not have the best results.

Also, the basecoat should not be too thick nor too thin on the wall, the thickness of the basecoat on the wall should be ⅙ thickness. So, ensure to put the right amount of from the start because the general rule of thumb is, a minimal amount of movement.

Applying the Fiberglass Mesh

• Place the edge of the mesh at the edge of your wall and roll gradually roll out the mesh
• In the process, use your trowel to embed the mesh (smoothen it out as you roll to avoid wrinkles).

You check again to ensure that the basecoat is not too thick or too thin after you’ve embedded the mesh. This is how to check: as you smoother the mesh over the coated wall, it should feel and sound smooth. If the trowel against the wall produces a rough sound or you can see the lines of the mesh, then the coating is too thin.

Points to Note in Cementing with Basecoat for Endurance

• The ambient, as well as surface temperature, must be or higher, preferably 40°F (4°C) during application and curing time.
• Make room for supplemental heat and protection from moisture.
• The surfaces of your wall must be leveled, dry, clean, unpainted, and free from any residue for utmost results.
• Don’t apply a basecoat in direct sunlight or hot weather.
• Do not use basecoat as a leveler for EPS, rasp EPS for leveling.

Conclusion

Cementing your EPS-covered wall is necessary for endurance (to increase the strength of the wall). You could follow the above procedure to achieve the best results.

The post Ultimate Guide! Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: Cementing With Basecoat for Endurance appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Leveling and Rasping the Styrofoam wall is the process nobody likes from the contractor side to Homeowner. As a matter of fact One of The reasons why is because it releases a huge amount of styrofoam flying around. As a matter of fact, if the area is not being covered with tarps or mesh.

Usually, Neighbors and homeowners will have to agree on this s part of the job as it can really get dusty and look like it’s winter. Have you ever been close to a house in the process of doing stucco? you know what I meant. Leveling insulation EPS helps achieve an even and smooth surface. And, this process is not rocket science, it’s just as easy if you know what to do.

Here, you will find out how to level your insulation EPS. We have broken the process down into actionable steps to help you get the best result. And You will then learn furthermore about the EPS.

What is Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)?

EPS foam is simply any form of expanded polystyrene. EPS is used in the building industry as an insulating material for walls, foundations, and roofing. They make the building resistant to degrading forces.

Expanded Polystyrene is produced in different densities (usually 20 – 200 mm) and with graphite for thermal enhancement to provide an insulation material.

EPS insulation is a lightweight, rigid, closed-cell insulation. This closed-cell structure provides minimal water absorption and low vapor permanence.

EPS production involves 2 major stages:

• Raw beads are expanded by applying steam to them to create pre-puff beads. These beads are then cured in large bags and afterward taken to the mold.

• Once its in the mold, the steaming process is repeated on the pre-puff beads to form a block that is around 37-1/2″ – 54″ x 49″ x 121-1/2″ – 220″. Then the blocks are placed on the storage floor to age for the appropriate length of time and further cut into various shapes and sizes.

Blocks are produced in several densities to meet specific project needs. Density is a measure of mass per volume. EPS is measured in pounds per cubic foot (lbs/pcf). The Insulation Company of America manufactures expanded polystyrene in the following minimum densities:

• 0.70 lbs/pcf
• 0.90 lbs/pcf
• 1.15 lbs/pcf
• 1.35 lbs/pcf
• 1.80 lbs/pcf
• 2.40 lbs/pcf
• 2.85 lbs/pcf

Benefits Of EPS Insulation

#1. Low cost

EPS is one of the low-cost rigid insulation options. And, even though it is very cost-effective, it does not compromise thermal performance.

In comparison to PIR, a 100 mm thick PIR will give a thermal resistance of 4.54 m2K/W. A PlusTherm EPS of 135 mm thick will achieve the same result while saving up to 50% on cost.

#2. Thermal Performance

Long story short, EPS provides an excellent thermal performance as a result of its structure. The quality of graphite used for Grey EPS makes it absorb radiant energy effectively, thereby enhancing its thermal conductivity to 0.030 W/mK.

#3. Compressive Strength

It’s remarcable The compression ability of EPS makes it an outstanding construction material for structural fills as well as flooring. EPS comes in various densities which are categorized according to BS EN 13163 standards to fulfill the minimum design strength for each project.

#4. Lightweight

EPS is made of roughly 98% air and only 2% plastic, and this is light. Lightweight construction materials have an edge over heavier materials in construction. They adapt more to the environment and you can easily move them around.

#5. Durability

EPS is a durable and permanent material for construction; it is hardly susceptible to insects, bacteria, and fungi. With that said It can last for up to 100 years when you prescribe and install it correctly. Expanded Polystyrene meanwhile is inert – when installed underground, it does not leach into the soil or groundwater.

#6. Safe to Use

EPS is not dangerous to health, unlike other insulation materials. It is non-toxic, non-irritant, chemically inert, and without odor, making for safe usage across all construction applications.

#7. Sustainability

Expanded polystyrene is very “Green”. EPS Insulation is composed of organic elements – carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and does not contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs).

Therefore, EPS has minimal Global Warming Potential and zero Ozone Depletion Potential. It is also 100% recyclable and can be used to create other products.

#8. Water-Resistant

The closed-cell pattern of EPS makes it resistant to water absorption. Its mechanical and thermal properties are not also influenced by humidity.

#9. Easy to Install

As a matter of fact EPS is lightweight and thus easy to Install. You do not necessarily need special equipment or skill for EPS insulation, you can always do it yourself.

Installing Insulation EPS

You can install EPS insulation onto your wall using any of these four ways:

• Full-surface adhesion
• Spot-edge adhesion
• Applying adhesive mortar to the EPS insulation board using a machine, or
• Applying adhesive mortar to the wall using a machine.

Full-Surface Bonding

This approach is only feasible for a smooth substrate.

• Apply bonding mortar to the full surface.
• Use a 15×15 mm toothed trowel for toothing without holding the trowel at too flat an angle.
• Trowel off the edges.
• Press and align the insulation boards.
• Use an emery board to fix the board.

You should thoroughly remove bonding mortar between boards’ joints immediately to prevent the formation of thermal bridges.

Spot-Edge Bonding

• Apply an all-around adhesive bid.

• Apply 6 adhesive fixing dabs to the board surface.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

Never the less The bonded portion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and the insulation board.

• Align the insulation boards.

Applying Adhesive Mortar to the EPS Insulation Board Using a Machine

• Apply an all-around adhesive bead with an enclosed W.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

The bonded proportion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and the insulation board.

• Align the insulation bonds.

Applying Adhesive Mortar to the Wall Using a Machine

Just like the first method, this method is only used for smooth substrates.

• Apply an adhesive board in sinus lines using a maximum spacing of 10 mm to the wall.

• Press the insulation board onto the wall and fix it using an emery board.

A matter of fact The bonded proportion of the board must be at least 40% both on the substrate and then the insulation board.

• Align the insulation boards.

You can achieve an adhesive mortar by mixing the dry bonding agent with water to the desired consistency.

EPS Insulation Guidelines

• The insulation boards must be about.

• Always install boards from bottom to top.

• The board joints must show a sufficient offset. Where necessary, provide a sufficient offset between the joint of the starter track and the joint of the insulation board of the first board row.

• At building corners, the insulation boards should be toothed.

• Make sure to align the insulation boards.

• Depending on the substrate, win loads, building heights, etc, you should do well with the insulation boards after attaching them.

Leveling Insulation EPS

Leveling your insulation EPS, as a result, makes it smooth and fine, thus revealing the aesthetic properties. Here’s how to level your insulation EPS after you’ve installed it.

• Check for the uneven parts in your EPS insulation and shave them off

• Apply a base coat of stucco adhesive mixture to the EPS insulation using a trowel. And You may Start applying from down then move upwards to feather get a even finish.

• Apply fiberglass mesh

• And Apply another layer of adhesive that as a result will healp to cover the mesh

Now, you are ready to coat with paint or a stucco finish.

Conclusion

You could follow the above steps for leveling insulation EPS.

The post Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: “Leveling/Rasping Insulation EPS” appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

This, however, involves a series of cautious activities, the first being moisture-proofing; making your wall moisture resistant.

Just after this process, it is insulating the wall, which improves the thermal performance of the walls, and generally, improves your building’s comfort level. And, one of the recommended materials to work with for insulating your wall is styrofoam.

Aside from being economical and very easy to work with, every inch provides a measure of thickness to strengthen your wall’s resistance. This means that you can achieve a high R-value with styrofoam and thus reduce thermal bridging. Here, we will tell you all you should know about insulating your wall.

What is Styrofoam Insulation?

There are different materials such as wool, plywood, that you can use to insulate your exterior walls, but styrofoam is a popular and stronger option. Styrofoam Produce Insulation For the Exterior Wall and such insulation is a traditional form of continuous insulation that provides your exterior wall with thermal efficiency.

Styrofoam sheet is made of a rigid foam that is sold in 4×8- or 4×10-footboards. These boards come in different R-values and thicknesses; ranging from 1-inch to 7-1nches, but 1-inch to 3/4 inches are the most common.

Basically, styrofoam insulation comes in three forms: expanded polystyrene (EPS), polyisocyanurate (polyiso), and extruded polystyrene (XPS). Polyiso can endure longer in high temperatures because of their cross-linked polymers component. EPS and XPS, in contrast, are non-cross-linked polymers, so they have less resistance with high temperatures.

This can vary though, depending on which product you are using. But generally, XPS and polyiso seem to be higher R-value, higher density, and lower permeance than EPS.

R-Values Of Styrofoam

The R-value is a measure of an insulation’s capability, how much insulation is able to resist heat flow. Typically, insulation with a high R-value has a greater capacity to prevent heat transfer.

La serie di farmaci per disfunzione erettile inventati uno dopo l’altro esemplifica perfettamente questo punto, come è chiaramente evidente che ogni farmaco successivamente scoperto è stato progettato e fabbricato in modo tale che compensa perfettamente le carenze dei farmaci scoperti prima

The R-value of different types of insulation varies, ranging from R-3 to R-15, and depends on various factors. For polyiso, the R-value after installation is around R-9. After about two years, it may reduce to R-8 or R-7. And, this may be as a result of air infiltration.

But, styrofoam insulation acts differently, several variables can cause the R-value of styrofoam insulation to change. Normally, 3-inch thick styrofoam insulation will give an R-Value of around R-15. While 3/4 inch thick will achieve an R-Value of around R-3.8.

Major Benefits of Insulating Your Walls With Styrofoam

Provides Better Insulation

One of the major reasons Styrofoam is recommended is that it is more effective for wall insulation. Especially for old walls, styrofoam can provide excellent remodeling and reinforcement.

With R-values ranging from 3.6 to 8.0, every inch strengthens your wall better than other materials. Plywood has an R-value of 1.25, and fiberglass, an R-value of 3.14. A higher R-value is an effective control against damages such as rots and molds. 

This type of insulation is also an active measure against thermal bridging which occurs with more heat-conductive materials, leading to loss of heat. Thermal bridging generally arises when interior insulation cuts across electrical boxes and stud frames.

Air Control

Insulating with styrofoam can prevent air leaks (act as air barrier) when you seal it with the proper adhesive, using the right technique. It allows air to flow out of the building, while effectively hedging it from penetrating the wall.

Moisture Control

Styrofoam also further strengthens your moisture-proofing. Since the wood used for moisture-proofing is prone to decay or molds if water touches it, placing layers of styrofoam on the wood will shield the wood from moisture.

And, this helps preserve your walls, making them last longer. On the other hand, during the winter, it warms the interior insulation to prevent moisture from storing up from the heated interior air.

How To Insulate Your Exterior Walls

Now, let’s guide you step by step into insulating your exterior wall. At this point, you should have done your moisture-proofing and be ready for insulation. You can check Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: Moisture Proof Stage. To learn more if you are yet to moisture-proof your wall. We will be using a 2-inch XPS insulation for this illustration.

Tips 1

The very first thing you need to do is measure the length and width of your wall and cut out the styrofoam using that measurement. However, if your wall is too long, you may need to cut the styrofoam into bits and place one after another to make it easy to work with.

Tips 2

Then measure the frame of your window and any other immovable objects (power service) on your wall. This is to enable you to make space for them in the foam and achieve a fine fitting. For your windows, measure from the ledger of the bottom to the bottom of the window, mark the measurement on your styrofoam.

Tips 3

Also, measure from the point in the wall where the styrofoam will begin to the edge of the window (do that at both sides). Using the measurements, cut out the foam so that the window frames easily fit into the open space in the foam.

Tips 4 Attach the Foam to the wall

Attach the foam to the wall, ensuring it laps well to the wall, especially at the window and any other place where there is an obstacle. Then fasten a 2-inch nail through the foam into the wall. You can use a longer nail depending on the thickness of your styrofoam. Also, use a nail that has a cap to cover any hole that may result from fastening the nail into the foam.

Make your insulation air and moisture tight

Make your insulation air and moisture tight. You can achieve this using a special “6×8” styrofoam strip to fill up the gap at every edge.  This special styrofoam strip has been wrapped with base coat cement and fiberglass mesh to effectively prevent air or moisture penetration.

Use spray foam to fill in the edges

Alternatively, you can use spray foam to fill in those edges. If you are changing your windows, perfect, just pull the windows, add the special styrofoam strip or a wood frame around the opening. The wood or styrofoam strip should be just the same thickness as the foam you are using, then put the window.

That way, the window does not project past the styrofoam. Very importantly, also use house wraps or flashing tapes to seal the seams (areas where you joined two styrofoam). To avoid moisture penetration. This is essentially important where the styrofoam insulation is also serving as a drainage plain.

The tapes should be strong enough to avoid passage of water at panel joints, risking the life span of the system.

Conclusion

Insulating your wall with styrofoam is one of the easiest insulation methods, hence, you can do it yourself. It does not require specialized equipment, you just need a sharp blade or even your saw, a nail, and a hammer to do your installation.

However, remember that gaps in styrofoam insulation that results from placing the styrofoam next to the other make it prone to air seepage. Air seepage reduces the effectiveness of the insulation, so you need to follow strict seam-sealing techniques to preserve the R-value of the insulation.

The post The Ultimate Guide Unique Exterior Stucco Home From Scratch: “Insulating Your External Walls” appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Just like Ontario in August; even your exterior stucco home has to confront the situation when it occurs.

If you live in an area where a significant storm is forecasted, your loved ones are your priority. Regardless of exterior stucco investment, you need to evacuate. Choosing the best condition of your siding is essential and may positively aid your home in the long run. You need to consider strong sidling and foundation that may probably resist Ontario hurricanes; you can spend less time worrying about minor details. Just read along.

So Generally speaking…

Your home will only remain standing following a natural event if it has a solid foundation and a solid structural building. It is usual for a tornado or Ontario hurricane to cause significant damage. If your siding flies off, it’s not a significant concern. But you could reduce this damage by keeping an eye on the exterior synthetic stucco.

Advantages of a stucco house in harsh season

Composition of Portland cement, sand, lime, and water for stucco siding, used over a lath base, applied in three coats can go a long way to provide a solid, durable, and seamless exterior stucco home. Which may withstand a magnitude of Hurricane or tornadoes?

How can a home withstand hurricanes and tornadoes?

1. Window and door: It’s a must to have appropriate windows and doors that could serve as a resistance to you before this odd situation. Proper installation can handle up to 150 mph tornadoes, so they should withstand a Category 4 hurricane.
2. Roof Design: A-frame roof on a stucco house must not be flat. And asserted on stucco home is strong enough to withstand some hurricane and tornadoes of 300 miles per hour.
3. Roofing Material: What roofing material is best to help protect against hurricanes or tornadoes. Metal and asphalt shingle roofing have many advantages. Because of the risk of damage from a storm, most people consider metal roofing the best option. A warranty covers most types of metal, which is good for the wind reaching a speed of 140 mph.
4. Building Shape: Circular stucco homes have an advantage over traditional rectangular dwellings in terms of aerodynamics. Linton says, “It’s obvious that the wind will go around it.” “That essentially means that Deltec homes have about 30% less wind pressure than rectangular homes.”

Some stucco structures have remained vital for many years, surviving Ontario hurricanes, tornadoes, heavy winds, hail, and severe rain. If you follow current building codes with your stucco home, it may stand firm when others on the houses are destroyed. With the strength to resist hurricanes, you can spend less time worrying. Just contact our specialist for advice and support.

Whether your home is in a hurricane-prone or storm-prone area, you should be able to save money and safeguard your home by choosing the right siding. Most homeowners don’t think about replacing their siding before a storm.

The Fact

However, your home’s exterior wall, which is the part that’s impacted the most during a hurricane or tornadoes, is the very reason you should install the best siding for your home. Even if you cannot replace your siding right now, there are steps you can take to safeguard your home.

Painting the siding with water- and wind-resistant paint will protect it from water damage from heavy rain. Nearly all colors with waterproof properties are suitable for use on all siding types.

Best siding for Hurricane Season

It’s your responsibility to check your exterior stucco homes for cracks, tears, and other wear and tear a month before the new or hurricane season begins. Is there any poorly fitted cladding or loose boards? Are there any missing or broken siding pieces or areas of possible water intrusion? Even if you can’t immediately replace the siding, you can address any loose boards or holes and seal cracks.

Siding

Starting a significant remodeling project, like replacing your siding, should not be done within a month of the beginning of hurricane season. There is a chance that you’ll run out of time, that a storm could occur early, or that you’ll have to take a detour to complete the job before the weather turns. It would help if you did not take any shortcuts or rush the process regarding the quality of your siding installation.

Most siding manufacturers subject their products to extensive testing. They search for material that will withstand winds and debris impacts, such as branches and twigs. Finding quality siding for a house is an essential task that a good contractor can assist with.

Wood siding

Old homes with wood siding are vulnerable to severe storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, and saltwater. If you live in a historic district and are forced to use wood siding, make sure you use high-quality wood, metal flash corners, and seal the joints well. Furthermore, paint the siding with water-resistant paint.

Vinyl Siding

Many homeowners choose vinyl siding because of its inexpensive cost and ease of maintenance; the panels can suffer from weather-related damage, like tearing and cracking. According to FEMA, vinyl siding that can resist wind speeds of up to 110 mph and torrential rain is storm-ready—ensuring the vinyl materials meet their quality standards. Vinyl is ideal for people living in moderate-climate areas, and it will survive moderate storms or hurricanes.

Every landlord will find the upcoming hurricane season a complex challenge. As we enter the new hurricane season, which runs from June to November, the experts expect a more intense one than usual, predicting 17 tropical storms, eight of which will be hurricanes. To keep yourself safe against all elements, budget time to evaluate all of the core components of your home structure. So they may at least withstand a little stress from Ontario hurricanes and tornadoes.

For advice, care about your exterior stucco home, building tips, and stucco renovation for your home. Contact us today

The post A Great Article About Exterior Stucco And Harsh (Hurricane And Tornado) Season appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

Putting up a structure, regardless of size, costs a fortune.

So, rarely will any property owner want to add to such a huge amount, the cost of maintenance or fixing damages regularly. Of course, the quality of the materials used for buildings determines their durability and ability to last longer.

Exterior Insulated Finish Systems (EIFS) are unique cladding solutions that help you achieve a solid building exterior. They provide control against some factors that can cause your building exterior to dilapidate rapidly so that you save costs on maintenance.

Even though there are other cladding systems such as siding with stucco and bricks this article will tell you why this cladding system is preferred. In addition, you will have answers to some questions you may likely have.

Unique Benefits Of EIFS

#1. Energy Conservation

A major value EIFS provides is energy efficiency and codes. They can reduce air infiltration to a great extent, a feature that standard brick or wood construction doesn’t offer. The result is that the walls can retain heat and conserve energy.

More so, most EIFS use an insulation board with an R-value of R-4 to R-5.6 per inch as the innermost layer in the wall system and thus contribute to the “R-value” of a building. R-value of a building shows the extent to which the building can resist heat. This means that a building with a high R-value is a testimony to the building materials’ insulating value.

#2. Durability

Compared to stucco, wood, and other siding materials, you may not need to paint your building if you use EIFS. Made with 100% acrylic binder, they are super resistant to fading, chalking, or even yellowing, and therefore last longer.

EIFS are also resistant to dirt, mold, and mildew, and mold, this helps maintain the buildings’ appearance. Weather rarely affects EIFS, they absorb building movement so that the temperature does not affect the wall and cause it to crack. This is one challenge with concrete, stucco, and brick exteriors.

#3. Moisture Control

From research, EIFS is the “best performing cladding” when you talk about thermal and moisture control. This is opposed to sidings like stucco, brick, stucco, and fiber cement. EIFS are strong water-resistant exterior surfaces for buildings.

Water intrusion is rarely the case with EIFS cladding structures, unlike other cladding systems. However, you must ensure that you install them properly. To further strengthen the system in this regard, use quality windows – AAMA certified windows to precisely.

Also, there must be proper flashing and sealing around the windows, roofs, doors, all attachments, and all other exterior wall penetrations. A maintenance routine that will do you a lot of good. You should fix the tiniest damage outrightly.

#4. Design Flexibility

Even though stucco and stone are visually appealing, EIFS are richer than them. With versatile colors and a wide array of textures, you can have any design or shape you desire.

Professional applicators find this system beneficial because they can create various unique exterior architectural detailing at a cheaper cost. Other traditional constructions such as arches, Keystones, cornices, etc, aren’t cost-effective.

#5. Fire Resistance

EIFS has passed the major fire resistance tests that are required by the building codes. These tests include:

• Fire Resistance (ASTM E 119)
• Ignitability (NFPA 268)
• Intermediate Multi-Story Fire Test (NFPA 285 (UBC 26-9))

They also showed resistance to the spread of flame within a combustible component of panels from one story to the next. In addition, they resisted lateral spreading of flames from the origin of the compartment fire to adjacent spaces.

Some Exterior Insulated Finish Systems FAQs

What is EIFS?

Exterior insulated finish systems(EIFS) basically are a unique type of cladding system. It uses strong insulation boards on your walls’ sheathing to provide superior resistance to your buildings. They are also known as synthetic stucco.

How Do EIFS Work?

There are various types of EIFS, but while some utilize outer barriers to curb water penetration, others have a secondary drainage plane behind the insulation. However, all EIFS share something in common; they are made with lightweight, synthetic materials.

Typically, in the EIFS, you install panels of polystyrene foam insulation and then coat them. Furthermore, you apply glass fiber mesh to the panels for reinforcement, then coat again. This process increases the thickness of the wall and makes them durable and resistant to all factors that can affect the wall.

How is EIFS Installed?

Whether old or new, a plastering contractor can EIFS on any structure that needs a facelift or improvement. The contractor can use his (her) hand to install the system. But, since technology has made life easy, the contractor can opt for factory already-made panels so that they just attach to the building using a crane.

Exterior stucco repairs is an exterior stucco contractor in Toronto that can help you with the EIFS installation.

How Much Do EIFS Cost?

EIFS is one of the most cost-effective exterior cladding systems. Basically, what determines the cost of EIFS is the thickness of the wall, quality of the insulation board, and type of exterior finish coat.

For instance, if you decide to go for a textured brick coating, you may have to spend because it is more expensive than using a simple stucco-like coating.

On an average estimated cost, EIFS costs $0.86 per square foot for material and an extra installation cost of $5 to $6. When compared to the benefits of this cladding, one of which is energy conservation, the cost is quite reasonable. With EIFS, you save some money on monthly energy bills.

What Are The Shortcomings Of The EIFS?

One challenge you may encounter with the exterior insulated finish system is moisture accumulation in the wall cavity. The reason for this is that barrier EIFS is prone to water intrusion. There could be improper joints and a lack of fine flashing, making it easy for water to penetrate.

When this is the case, the system may not dry out easily. This may also lead to mold growth and wood decay.

More so, this system may breed pest infestation because of the EPS foam panels it uses in the process. Carpenter ants and termites are some pests that you may have to fight.

Bottom Line

EIFS is a better option if you need a cladding system that will give the best and save you unnecessary costs in the future. With layers of panels and double coating, your walls are thick enough to resist fire, water, and weather impacts. Aside from that, you have a beautiful building exterior that won’t fade in a hurry. You may need to try the exterior insulated finish system, it has so much value to offer.

The post 5 Key Values Of EIFS Exterior Insulated Finish Systems That Make The Difference in your home and You Should Know in Ontario appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.

As the cold winds begin their journey, homeowners start to inspect their homes. This is the perfect time when you, as a homeowner, should assess the house and see which part of the home’s exterior needs maintenance. Well, here’s a rundown of the top exterior home maintenance tips you must count on this fall.

Stucco

It is pretty easy and affordable to upkeep. Though stucco is durable, rigid, and very easy to maintain, it is still an integral part of your home that needs maintenance on a regular basis. It is a porous material, so it can absorb stains, and you need to get it cleaned. Also, any cracks, holes, and chips can develop on it once it ages. Take quick action whenever you notice dirt or any crack on the stucco. You can seek the help of a professional.

The best thing about stucco is that if it is in good condition or you upgrade it, then it can increase your home value. As already said, it is an ultimate exterior material, and usually, it does not require a great deal of maintenance. But you must clean it and consider contacting a stucco contractor if it starts getting any cracks.

Gutters

When did you clean your gutters? You may not remember but perhaps it’s been a while. It is imperative that the gutters of your home are clean and function efficiently. If they are not cleaned, they will get clogged with debris and leaves. This will lead to the water damage problem because the water will not flow away from your home but will run down the side of the home.

So, this fall, clean out the gutters and make sure they are correctly attached to your home. Also, check if there’s any gap between the gutter and roof; if yes, then get it repaired. Always remember that a clean gutter will function properly and will keep the water away from the foundation.

Roofing

The roof of your home is one of the crucial parts which should never be left unnoticed. If a roof is in good condition, then it can keep you in a temperature-controlled environment. You need to clean it from time to time in order to get rid of dirt, grime, and moss. If you have big trees around your home, then there are chances that the leaves will accumulate on the roof. So, make sure to get it cleaned and maintain it nicely.

If you notice any leak in your home, then there’s a high probability that it is because of roof damage. Sometimes wind, hailstorms, etc., can damage the roof, and you will notice missing or damaged shingles. Also, if you have silicone coating, then heavy rain may damage it to some extent. Whatever your case is, it is important to seek help from a roofing contractor who can do the essential repair so that you can add more years to your roof.

Make sure you never ignore or delay the roof repairs; otherwise, a damaged roof can lead to many issues, and then you will have to pay much for the repair or replacement.

Windows and doors        

These are other important things to maintain because drafty doors or windows can result in increasing the heating costs. Not only this, it will let moisture do damage. So, check them for any visible gaps. See if they can properly get opened, closed, and locked. You can even replace the summer screen with storm windows.

Do not forget to look for weak and loose spots and if you find any, get them repaired. Replacing old or outdated windows is also a great option you can count on if their condition is not good.

Plumbing

This is something underrated, but you must count on plumbing and make the necessary repairs and replacements. If there are pipes that are exposed to exterior walls, then wrap them by using pipe insulation, or you can use heating tape as well. You can cover the outdoor faucets with a quality insulating cover.

Check the exterior faucets, sprinkles and make sure they are in the right condition. It is vital that you consider checking everything related to plumbing this fall and keep it up to the point so that it can function properly.

Foundation

It is the pillar of the house, and maintaining it is a must if you wish to keep your home dry. It is vital that you do a careful inspection of it bi-annually and if you see any cracks, then get them repaired. Tiny cracks, if ignored, can lead to huge damages.

Leakage is one of the results that can occur if you keep avoiding the maintenance of the foundation. It should stay in great shape if you want to keep your house comfortable.

Siding

There are different types of siding such as Hardie board siding, vinyl siding, insulated vinyl siding, wood siding, brick siding, everlast composite siding, metal siding, etc. No matter which siding your home has, it demands some kind of repair and maintenance from time to time.

Check if there are any cracks or areas that need repair. Dents, holes, and other damage to the siding can be fixed easily, and it will not blow your budget. The simple caulking an opening or replacing damage on time can add years to their life.

Final words

Maintaining the exterior of your home needs to be on the priority list. By inspecting the exterior of the home, you will not only improve the look of your home but will also enhance its life. So, make sure you maintain each of the parts of your home that are mentioned above in order to keep the major damages and problems at bay.

The post 7 Valuable Exterior Home Improvement Tips to Consider This Fall appeared first on Sky Stucco Systems Contractor.